Is Hiroshima & Miyajima Good for Kids? Our Honest Take
Short answer: Miyajima, absolutely. Hiroshima, we honestly can't fully speak to as an incoming typhoon changed our itinerary and left us with very little time there. Here's exactly how it went, weather and all.
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Jackson, striking a pose with Itsukushima Shrine as his backdrop.
Hiroshima - A Brief Stop
Because of the incoming typhoon, we didn't get to spend much time in Hiroshima at all. We walked by the Atomic Dome and through the Peace Memorial Park, but only a quick pass-through since it wasn't something that held Jackson's interest, so we didn't linger, as we were in a bit of a hurry.
What he did genuinely enjoy was the tram ride from the train station to the Atomic Dome area, since it was a different form of transportation than anything else on the trip, similar to how much he loved the transportation variety back in Hakone. It felt like a cross between a train and a bus, and that novelty was enough to make it a highlight for him.
We had lunch in Hiroshima - okonomiyaki, which the city is famous for. I found a spot that offered a gluten-free version! If you’re gf like me, check out the details in my Gluten-Free Japan Guidebook. We also briefly touched on the historical significance of the area with Jackson, but it became clear pretty quickly that he wasn't ready to really understand what had happened there, so we let it go. That's worth knowing if you're traveling with a similarly young kid as you may want to think ahead about how much, if anything, to explain.
The Atomic Bomb Dome - a quiet, sobering stop on our way through Hiroshima.
The Ferry to Miyajima - A Huge Hit
This was one of Jackson's favorite parts of the entire stop. We took the World Heritage Sea Route ferry (not the JR ferry) over to the island, and the water was fairly choppy, likely from the same incoming weather that had already reshuffled our plans. Jackson loved every second of it, especially the water splashing against the windows.
Aboard the World Heritage Sea Route ferry - choppy water, splashing windows, and one of Jackson's favorite part of the day.
Arriving on Miyajima
We arrived before check-in time, so we dropped our bags at the hotel and headed straight for the Miyajima Ropeway, which was another hit with Jackson. We skipped the hike this time, partly due to time and partly to avoid getting caught in the rain, so we just rode up and back down. The views are pretty - mountainous, with a lovely view of Hiroshima's skyline in the background.
Riding the Miyajima Ropeway - another form of transportation to add to the list!
We had a little time to explore Miyajima's shopping streets before the rain really set in. The island's free-roaming deer were an immediate favorite of his, and we walked out to the torii gate itself. It was low tide, so we were able to walk all the way out to it, deer wandering around us the whole time.
Low tide, the torii gate up close, and a deer with its own agenda - Miyajima in one photo LOL
The Rain Rolls In
Once the rain started, we made our way back toward the hotel, stopping to grab Jackson an ice cream along the way. Back in the room, we relaxed in the provided massage chair (such a nice treat!) and got cleaned up before dinner.
We borrowed umbrellas from the hotel for the walk to dinner. It was drizzling, and since it was later in the evening, most other tourists had already left the island. We walked the back streets essentially alone, with no one around but the deer. It was a genuinely cool experience to feel like we had the island to ourselves.
Dinner itself was lovely. By the time we finished, the rain had calmed a bit, so we walked back to see the torii gate again, this time at high tide, a completely different look from earlier in the day. With so few people still out, Jackson had the freedom to run around carefree, sharing his umbrella with a few deer along the way. It was a great chance for him to burn off some energy after.
Jackson sharing his umbrella with a deer that was not interested…
Where We Stayed
This ended up being one of our favorite hotels of the whole trip, Hotel Miyajima Villa. It felt genuinely luxurious compared to some of our other stays, and we each had our own bed, which meant everyone actually slept well.
The lobby itself is also really nice and offers several places to relax, including an outdoor seating area with a hut-like structure - open-air but covered, with seats inside, a bit like a cross between a gazebo and a glamping tent. Free ice cream and teas/drinks are available there too.
There's also an onsen on the property, but children under 6 aren't allowed to use it, so we can't personally speak to it. It looked lovely though, with an absolutely stunning view of the water. I imagine at sunset it would be a really nice way to relax.
Heading Out
The next morning it was pouring rain, so we made our way to the JR ferry and continued on to Osaka.
So, Is It Good for Kids?
Miyajima, without question - the ferry, the ropeway, the free-roaming deer, and the torii gate at both low and high tide gave Jackson the freedom to burn up some energy, even in the rain. Hiroshima is harder for us to fully assess given how little time we had, but our honest take is that the historical weight of the Peace Memorial area may be more meaningful for older kids who can actually process it, while younger kids may connect more with things like the tram ride or a meal of okonomiyaki. If a typhoon (or any other disruption) shortens your own time here, know that Miyajima alone is worth the trip.
Just Jackson and a new friend, torii gate and all the peacefulness :)
Should You Overnight on Miyajima?
In our opinion, yes. But we did budget for it, as it was our most expensive night of the trip. I intentionally built two slow-downs into the trip - one in Hakone, and this one on Miyajima - to give us a break from an otherwise fast-paced itinerary. We're also "nature" people, so getting outside the major cities and into the more nature-oriented locations of Hakone and Miyajima was perfect for us. I also really enjoyed the peacefulness of Miyajima once most of the tourists left for the day as it provided a totally different experience, one that felt especially appreciated after the crowds of the major cities.
I'd originally planned to spend more time in Hiroshima and do the Miyajima hike the following morning but with the incoming typhoon, we had to fit in just the ropeway (no hike), and left the island the next morning since it was pouring rain. That's another reason to consider overnighting: if you want enough time to fully experience the island, including the hike, staying overnight gives you much more room for that.
That said, Miyajima would work perfectly well as a day trip too because you can easily and quickly return to Hiroshima (or wherever else) to save money. If you have the time and budget for an overnight, especially if your family could use a slower pace for a night, it's absolutely worth it. But you can still have a great time if a day trip is all your itinerary allows for.
That smile says it all - Miyajima was a hit.
More From Our Japan Trip
This is one piece of a full 14-day trip through Japan. For the complete picture of what we spent here, check out our Hiroshima & Miyajima cost breakdown.
For the complete route, see our 14-Day Japan Itinerary, or check out the full trip cost breakdown.
Want the exact plan we used, hotel-by-hotel and day-by-day? Grab our 14-Day Japan Guidebook which has our full itinerary, transportation, hotels, timing, and planning logistics, built from this exact trip.